![]() When you clean the dishes, wash your hands, or take a shower, the grey tank is where the dirty water goes. Grey and Black Tanks- The Dirty Water Tanks Fresh Water Main: This is the potable water that you drink from the taps.Those lowest points are where the drains will be located. The fresh, grey, and black tanks are all shaped to funnel the water to their lowest points. Water Drains: When you need to winterize the pipes, you will use these to drain the water from the tanks.Fresh Water Overflow: If you overfill the tank, the water will pour out of the overflow pipe at the top of the tank.You can pour the water through the inlet, and the RV’s water pump will circulate the water through the system. Gravity Fill: These aren’t included on every RV, but they are common.Because of this continual pressurization, the RV’s water pump will not be needed. The pressurized connection will pump the water through the plumbing system. City Fill: This inlet requires a hose connected to the city water supply. ![]() There are typically two ways to fill it and three ways to drain it. Fresh Water SystemĪs the name implies, the fresh water tank holds the drinkable (potable) water. It’ll save your battery power and potentially extend a boondocking trip. For this reason, most recommend that you turn off the water heater when it isn’t needed. ![]() It can take less than a minute before its copper components begin to melt.Īn RV’s water heater tank is only 6 to 10 gallons, so it only takes about 5 to 10 minutes for the heating element to warm up the water. The heating element will burn itself out without water to conduct the heat away from itself. The water heater should never be turned on unless the plumbing is pressurized. Only Run When Water Lines Are Pressurized The emptying tank reduces the pressure of the plumbing system, which triggers the pump to refill the pipes and hot water tank with more water. ![]() When a faucet or shower needs hot water, that water is pulled from the top of that tank and into the hot water lines. As the water warms, it rises to the top of the tank. As water is pushed through the water lines, some of that water is forced into the water heater’s tank. RV water heaters are powered by propane, electricity, or both. If you look at the RV plumbing diagram, it can be placed anywhere on the hot (orange) or cold (blue) lines. This added pressure eases the burden on the pump and extends its life.Īccumulator Tanks can be installed anywhere within the pressurized parts of the pipelines. Using a pre-pressurized air bladder, these devices add the needed pressure to the lines, so the water pump will not need to cycle on again. To combat this, the pump rapidly cycles on and off to remedy that lack of pressure.Īccumulator tanks are the solution to this problem. In some systems, the water pressure stays a bit too low. Some water pumps need a bit of extra help. The dirty water tanks are called grey water and black water, and we will talk about those further below. The other two tanks store contaminated waters until you can release them into the city sewer system. There are three tanks in an RV four if you count the water heater. If your water pump doesn’t sense a lack of pressure in the pipes, it won’t try to pump the water.Īn RV isn’t tied directly into the city plumbing, so a few holding tanks are required. If you are at the RV, don’t worry about it. If something goes wrong and you spring a leak, you will want to be there to limit the damage. The 12-volt water pump should be turned off when you aren’t going to be near the RV. It is located just outside of the fresh water tank, where it pulls the water through itself and into the water main. The water pump pressurizes the water lines, much like a heart to the circulatory system. Water Pump – The Heart of the Plumbing System However, when you flush, you typically don’t need to think about what happens. Additionally, in a brick-and-mortar home, maintenance is minimal.
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